HAFLONG IN ASSAM

          I always wondered why they called that place Haflong and if Haflong was in Assam, where was Full Long; although being in the Army, one had heard of a number of Longs, Kaylong, Aalong et all.  Haflong was the place where I was stationed for a good year and a half as staff officer in the Brigade overseeing counter insurgency operations.  Before joining the Army, I had never imagined going to the East and more so, in places with such funny names.  What’s in a name, they say, but the kind of person that I am, I got down to find its meaning and to my surprise it meant `An Ant Hill’.  Another school of thought said; since this is midway on the railway line from Lumding to Silchar; so the name.  I was even more surprised when I got to know that this little Ant Hill had two railway stations, ‘Lower Haflong’ and ‘Upper Haflong’ and was delighted to see one of them in the movie “Dil Se”.

      My wife being in Masimpur, Silchar, a small distance of six hours from me made her travel a numerous times on the train to Haflong and some times even beyond to a place called Maibong, due to the call of her duty as Medical Officer posted in the Field Ambulance.  Being an avid nature lover, she enjoyed every trip on the train, a narrow-gauge, which connects Lumding to Silchar.  By far, that is the most exclusive train route I had ever travelled, of course, the thought of empty railway stations enroute with nothing to cater for a typical North Indian        taste-bud had to be brushed aside.

Coming back to the Ant Hill; this was actually a place where the British Indian Railways wanted to establish their Division.  The place is replete with history and will be delight to any anthropologist or nature lover equally.  The town is the Headquarters of North Cachar Hills District and was once the seat of Rani Gadalu who braved the Japanese Soliders.  It is a place that houses most of the Eastern tribes varying from the Zemi Nagas, Kukis, Dimachas to Cacharis.  In fact the origin of Nagas has been traced to a village called Laisong, a stone throw away from Haflong, by a German anthropologist.  Then you have the Semsais in Semkhor Village, who were the original marshal caste Chinese Soldiers brought to Semkhor by rules of Haflong and till recently no one was allowed to enter the village, it is here that you will find typical Chinese with their long pencil mustaches and beards.  Close to Haflong you have Maibong, where Hidimba (Wife of Bhim, one of the Pandavas) once lived, her off springs known as Hidimbachas were routed out to Nepal by Dimachas who were off springs of pure eastern blood.

          So much for the History and Anthropology.  That’s not the real treat;  a visit to the town is a must to enjoy the scenic beauty of the place where clouds come saying “Hello” when you open the doors and windows to your rooms, in this, only hill station of Assam.

          You have the famous Jatinga Valley a fifteen minutes drive away,  where birds suicide in large numbers on moonless nights in September and October. Ornithologists  till date have not been able to solve the mystery behind this unique phenomenon.      This is a place where I first saw ferns growing like tall palm trees and jungles full Bay leave trees (tezpatta which we fondly use in cooking) and Orchids.  In fact one of the largest Orchid collection is housed in one of the local teachers’ garden and some of them have to be seen through a magnifying glass since they are so small.

          The town has a beautifully located tourist complex complete with mountain bikes and boats for enjoyment in the boating club close by.  At that time, the location was occupied by the Army, but I believe it is no longer so.  The stay of Army has only added to the beauty of the landscape in the form of Gazibos and Badminton courts, the construction of which was a primary task for me, secondary of course is anyone’s guess; since I was the junior most staff officer.  My wife used to come to the town on her routine medical support trips to the Brigade and kind courtesy the old man, who was still young at heart, each one turned out to be a picnic.  At times when she was travelling to places ahead, I would join her for meal at Lower Haflong and as we enjoyed our meal the train chugged for 45 minutes to reach Upper Haflong, since the track wound around the so called ‘Anthill’.  The biggest surprise came to her  when she first time, got to know that it only takes ten minutes by road from one Haflong railway station to the other.  Life sure is full of surprises.

          So long!